This is a guest post.
URKYE recently released the Kameleon blazer in black and in blue. Photos of the blazer were released in the spring, and I’ve been looking forward to it ever since. The product appears to be a hit, as it sold out in most sizes within days. With such a successful debut, I hope that URKYE will create more stock and introduce additional blazers in the future.
URKYE is a Polish company specializing in creating clothing for a fuller bust. Clothing is sized according to waist and bust size. Each waist measurement comes with three different levels of bust room: o, oo, or ooo. Products which are made of stretch fabric come in two bust sizes, o/oo and oo/ooo. URKYE’s website has an English version, and payment can be made with Paypal or a credit card. If you create an account and order regularly from URKYE, you become eligible for a discount which is automatically applied to all your orders.
I purchased the Kameleon in czerni (black) for 199 zł (roughly 47€/£39/$64). I ordered two sizes, 42 o/oo and 42 oo/ooo. Although I usually wear 42 o/oo in stretch fabrics, URKYE’s suggestion that I base my size on my fitted shirt size made me want to hedge my bets by ordering two sizes. I’ve found that in fitted shirts I need more room than the oo the size chart would suggest. In this case, 42 o/oo was the better size for me.
Bust in bra: 103 cm (40.5″)
Hip: 99 cm (39.0″)
Natural waist: 79 cm (31.1″)
Height: 160 cm (5’2″)
Bra worn: Dalia Olimpia 80G
I made the order on 19 September and the package arrived 7 or 8 days later, which is what I would expect when ordering within the European Union. Shipping for the two blazers was 74 zł. The blazers were shipped together in a soft padded envelope.
The Kameleon is not a suit jacket. Rather, it’s a casual blazer with some stretch to it (92% cotton and 8% elastane, according to the label). This means that it is machine-washable, which is always something I appreciate. Although I would also like a more formal jacket, I’m pleased URKYE decided to release this casual one first. Before my bust made it impossible, I enjoyed wearing jeans, a t-shirt, and a jacket in the autumn. I’m so pleased that I can explore this style again by pairing it with a Skubik, Venice, or a long-sleeved Skub. I paired it with a red Skubik and a grey Skub for these pictures.
The distinguishing detail in this blazer is the waist, where a diamond-shaped inset splits the top from the bottom, drawing attention the natural waistline. I like this because it is distinctive. Most of the time, I’m simply looking for ordinary clothing which happens to fit me in the bust. The Kameleon is one of the few pieces I’ve seen which makes me feel as if I’m being offered a designer’s vision rather than an adaptation. URKYE’s designs have always been a bit quirky, and with the Kameleon I feel like I own something distinctive.
The color is a slightly shiny black, darker than it appears in the photo above (the photos which show the jacket worn are representative of the actual color). The top of the blazer is lined with an olive green fabric. Below the waist there is no lining. The jacket is cut away in the front under the three buttons, so that the underlying shirt is visible both above and below the waist.
The diamond-shaped waist dwindles to a band about 6 cm (2.4″) wide on the sides and in the back. Not only does this continue to accentuate the natural waist, it also allowed URKYE to add more fabric to the bottom in the back and gather it in at the waist. URKYE clothing tends to be cut for an hourglass figure, but usually space is added on the hips, whereas with the jacket it is in the back.
Comfort and Quality
As you would expect from a fabric with a light amount of stretch, it is quite comfortable. It was designed generously with the expectation that a thicker long-sleeved shirt could be worn under it. There was room in the torso and in the sleeves for a shirt to be worn underneath.
Some of URKYE’s earlier products didn’t wear well, with the fabric prone to stretching or developing pills. It seems that these issues have largely been solved. All of the 2013 winter and summer items have held up well to regular use. It’s too soon to judge how the Kameleon will last, but I have confidence based on the last two collections that I will be able to wear it for years to come.
I have heard some people remark that the blazer runs large, but in my opinion it is true to size. URKYE’s size chart puts me in a 42 o/oo, and that was certainly a better fit for me than 42 oo/ooo. I expect that a 40 would be too small for me in both the waist and the shoulders. I own some URKYE clothing in 44, and considered ordering the blazer in that size as well, but after seeing the 42 I am fairly certain the 44 would be too large in the shoulders.
Unfortunately the blazer does not fit me as well as I would like. I intend to keep it, because I really like the way it looks, but I no longer want to purchase both colors.
The first problem is the arms. Something about the shape, cut, or size of the armhole doesn’t work for me. I don’t sew, so it is difficult for me to describe the problem, but it could be solved by introducing a gusset in the armpit. It’s a problem I usually associate with clothing which is too small in the bust. In this case, there is ample breast room and I have the full range of motion in my arm without the feeling that I’ll rip the jacket, but moving my arm does destroy the lines of the front of the jacket.
The picture shows how it looks when I haven’t adjusted the jacket after extending my arm. In the other pictures I have adjusted the fit so that a clear distinction between armpit and breast is visible.
My second problem with the fit is the flaring bottom section. I am top-heavy, and URKYE’s designs are consistently too wide for me. Usually, as with the Skubik, I simple accept the illusion of larger hips, but sometimes, as with the Skunk, I find it better to have the clothing altered to eliminate the excess fabric. I would have chosen to have the Kameleon altered, but it appears quite complicated. Many URKYE pieces are cut with widening front and back panels and altering them is a simple matter of taking in the seam somewhat. The gathered fabric along the back would be much more complicated to remove, and it doesn’t make me look as if I have broader hips. Rather, it reminds me of peplum, and I do not like peplum.
The sleeves were too long for me and I will have to have them altered.
I found the Kameleon to be as well-made as any of URKYE’s offerings, and reasonably priced. I was impressed with the style and the simple care it requires. The blazer was never uncomfortable, but it wasn’t as comfortable as it could have been when I moved my arms. Where fit is concerned, I will probably always find URKYE short of the perfect fit, because of the sleeve length and the hip room, both of which I expect are appreciated by other customers. Usually if I find the hip/butt flare unflattering on me, as I do in the case of the Kameleon, I just request that alteration along with the sleeve shortening, but it would be difficult and expensive to do this with the Kameleon. The fit in the armpits was a much bigger disappointment and I hope URKYE will address this with any future blazers.
Overall, it’s a beautiful and comfortable piece, sadly with some fit issues, some of which are specific to me, but one of which seems more general. I look forward to URKYE’s next blazer, and to seeing the company’s unique look develop.